ROD DURABILITYThis is probably the single most over looked aspect of choosing a rod. If you know how to take care of your equipment it shouldn't be an issue. The graphite fibers of thin walled ultra high modulus fly rods can easily get "bruised" by bead headed flies or bouncing around in the back of a truck, trunk or boat. A "bruised" rod will eventually fail. This means that they have to be transported and fished with care. This is also why a good rod tube and sock is a must for protecting your rod. A good compromise between weight and duribility is IM6 graphite. It is lighter than standard graphite and has a much higher tensile strength than many of the ultra high modulus graphites meaning they are less likely to break. A few years ago this was the lightest graphite made and has proven itself as a great choice for those who want a high perfomance lightweight and durable rod. If you "abuse" your rods you should consider fiberglass. While fiberglass is heavier than graphite it is extremely tough. There are only a few fiberglass fly rod blanks on the market so choice is limited. The best protection for a fly rod is to have and use a sturdy rod case AND a cloth rod sock. COMPONENTS GUIDES Some components are much more durable than others. Cheap guides will groove and anything other than titanium (even stainless steel) will corrode in saltwater. The best components are either pure titanium or titanium coated. ALWAYS GIVE YOUR ROD A FRESHWATER RINSE AFTER USING IT IN SALTWATER. THIS WILL ELIMINATE 99% OF PROBLEMS. REEL SEATS Reel seats are subject to the same fall backs as guides. An excellent choice for saltwater fly rods is a graphite reel seat like you would find on a spinning rod. This will eliminate any electrolysis issues with you fly reel and they are available with wood inserts for aesthetics. ALWAYS GIVE YOUR ROD A FRESHWATER RINSE AFTER USING IT IN SALTWATER. THIS WILL ELIMINATE 99% OF PROBLEMS.
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